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THE JOURNAL
Essays on formulation, ingredients and the science of care.
Written by Dr. Augusta Coker from the bench. Free posts give you the foundations. Premium articles — full formulations with percentages, supplier lists, six-month stability logs — unlock with a subscription from $15/month.
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FORMULATION · 9 MIN READ · AUG 2026
The importance of hair moisturising: unlocking the secret to healthy hair.
Why most “moisturising” products on the shelf are mostly occlusive — and what a cosmetic scientist reaches for instead when she wants hair to actually hold water.
By Dr. Augusta Coker
RECENT ESSAYS
From the bench this month.
PREMIUM
FORMULATION · 14 MIN
A complete aloe vera hair shampoo formula, with stability notes.
The full bench process — percentages, cold-process steps, preservative choice and a six-month stability log.
By Dr. Augusta Coker
PREMIUM
SKIN · 11 MIN
Calming and soothing facial cleanser with aloe vera and allantoin.
A gentle anionic surfactant system for reactive and post-procedure skin — with notes on adapting pH for different climates.
By Dr. Augusta Coker
FREE
INGREDIENTS · 7 MIN
Why cold-milling matters — the difference in your amla powder.
Heat-treated botanicals lose up to 60% of their vitamin C. Here’s how to tell.
By Dr. Augusta Coker
PREMIUM
FORMULATION · 16 MIN
Emulsion stability, demystified: HLB, phase order, and why your cream separated.
A practical guide to the science behind stable oil-in-water emulsions, with three case studies from the bench.
By Dr. Augusta Coker
FREE
INGREDIENTS · 8 MIN
The eight clays every formulator should know.
Bentonite, kaolin, rhassoul, red, green, yellow, fullers earth, ghassoul — what each one does and when to reach for it.
By Dr. Augusta Coker
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BUSINESS · 12 MIN
How to price a handmade skincare product in francophone Africa.
Cost-plus vs value-based, with real numbers from three brands across Cameroon, Senegal and CAR.
By Dr. Augusta Coker
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Six rooms in the Journal.
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